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Introduction
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******** The
electronic data in this Section has largely been supplied by CDI
electronics, a division of Rapair, Inc. CDI electronics has been
the leader in outboard marine Ignition technology since 1983, and
their products are marketed under the name of "Quick Strike
ignitions". Outboardparts.com features CDI Electronic Products
throughout our site. This information is supplied as a service
guide only and Outboardparts.com is not liable for any
misunderstandings, errors or omissions regarding this
information. The information has been obtained from actual Unit
analysis, parts manuals, and other sources.
********
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| The purpose of this brochure is to give the marine technician
a general overview or the types of test equipment and their use.
The most common, easy to use, test equipment will be
covered. |
| Due to the rapid development of computerized EFI (Electronic
Fuel Injection) and ECU Ignition systems, more complicated and
expensive test equipment will be developed for the marine
industry, just as it has been developed for the automotive
industry. Some newer equipment will include the use of scope
meters (such as the Fluke 98), ECU and EFI testers, digital
analyzers, and computer interface testers. Hopefully, the newer
test equipment will be user friendly and many Troubleshooting
problems will be diagnosed with less complicated equipment. |
|
| The test procedures at the end of this brochure are intended
to give the technician a better understanding of the most common
failures and allow testing with minimal equipment. |
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Test Equipment and Measurements
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| I. VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter) Multimeter |
|
A. Analog meter - The analog VOM is a dial/needle
movement with multiple switch settings and ranges on each
setting. This meter usually requires "calibrating" of the scale
before use.
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|
They normally consume batteries at a fast
rate.
|
|
| B. Digital meter - The digital VOM uses a digital display to
indicate the readings. Of the following types, the manual and
autoranging are the most popular |
|
| 1. Manual range setting - The measurement range is
selected by a switch, i.e. 20 ohm, 200 ohm, 2k ohm, 200k ohm and
20M ohm. The symbol for ohms is W. |
| |
| 2. Autoranging - A true autoranging meter will
automatically select the correct range for the measurement being
taken, i.e., you can measure 20 ohms and 2k ohms without changing
anything on the meter. The Type of measurement still has to be
manually selected, i.e., AC Volts, DC Volts, Ohms, AC Amps and DC
Amps. |
|
|
| 3. Manual / Autoranging - Some meters have both manual
and automatic settings, i.e., the Fluke 88, Fluke 29, etc. |
|
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| 4. Ranges - As a reminder, when referring to
electronics, the k is 1000, i.e., 1k ohm is 1000 ohms and 20k
ohms is 20,000 ohms. The M is 1,000,000 i.e., 2M ohm is
2,000,000 ohms. |
|
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| II. Peak Reading Voltage Measurement |
|
| A. DVA (Peak Reading)
Voltmeters - Specialty meters for measuring average DC voltages
and AC voltage spikes on Ignition systems. Some of the more
common meters include the Stevens CD-77, Merc-o-tronic and ESI
meters with DVA ranges. |
|
|
| B. Multi-use Voltmeters with
DVA Adapters - Analog or digital VOM (volt, ohm meters) using a
plug-in DVA adapter to measure DVA voltages. Accuracy varies
quite a bit between manufacturers and types of meters when taking
DVA readings. The CDI/Rapair 511-9773 peak adapter is highly
recommended for use with all Fluke meters. |
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|
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| III. RPM (Tachometer) Measurements |
|
| A. Inductive Tach Measurements |
| This type measurement is made by clamping an
inductive pickup probe on one of the spark plug wires. Very few
of the inductive systems will work well on two cycle CD ignitions
due to the RF and microwave noise being generated. The Fluke 88
Multimeter used with the CDI/Rapair 511-9788B two cycle adapter,
is highly recommended. The Merc-o-Tronic Inductive Tach and the
CDI/Rapair Tach Adapter (P/N 511-9785) are some of the units
recommended for both two and four cycle service. Inductive
tachometers can be a real time-saver when trying to find a high
speed miss by comparing the readings on all cylinders, i.e., if
one or two cylinders shows a big difference in comparison to the
other cylinders. The use of inductive tachometers is recommended
for detection of double firing cylinders. If one cylinder shows
twice the RPM of the other cylinders, it is probably double
firing. |
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|
|
| B. Reflective Tach Measurements - These
are optical tachometers, that use a piece of reflective tape on
the flywheel or pulley. |
|
| C. Contact Tachometer - NOT
RECOMMENDED for Outboard Use. |
| Uses a center hub rotator and counts the
RPM.. |
|
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| D. Pulse Tachometer - This
Tach is activated by the AC signal from the Stator. The RPM
signal is related to the number of Pulses received from the
Stator. |
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| IV. Temperature Measurements |
|
| A. Thermocouple / Meter System |
| This is probably one of the most useful systems.
The Fluke 51 and 52 temperature meters, or the accessory
temperature attachments for the Fluke meters, are capable of
measuring exhaust gas temperature, water temperature, head and
block temperature. Various probes are available for different
types of measurement with the bead probe being one of the most
useful. The bead probe can be positioned on the block with the
use of duct tape. |
|
|
| B. Infrared Temperature
Probes |
| They can be used to measure temperature at
various points on the engine or water temperature without
contact. However, some running engines generate too much
electronic static and will interfere with the infrared sensor
readings. Holding the temperature probe too close may cause the
Ignition noise to ruin the Unit. |
|
|
| C. Temperature Sticks, Paint
or Labels |
| These can be used for quick measurementof over
heating conditions. |
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| V. Pulse Measurements / Frequency Measurements |
| This is a good method to check electronic fuel
injection systems (EFI). A measurement of the injector Pulses at
a set RPM can determine if the injection system is performing
properly. At the current time there are few recorded
measurements on the various EFI systems. The Fluke 88 meter is
one of the meters designed to measure EFI Pulse rates. |
|
|
| VI. Resistance Measurements |
| This is one of the first and easiest
measurements that needs to be taken on an Ignition system. The
charts in the back of this brochure are furnished as a guide. Be
aware that temperature can make a slight difference in the
readings. The higher the temperature - the higher the resistance
reading is going to be. One final note, a Stator or Trigger can
test fine with an ohmmeter and still be bad. |
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| VII. Current Measurements |
|
| A. Direct Volt Amps (DVA) |
| One of the most important
measurements to be taken on Ignition systems are voltage
measurements using a DVA meter, or peak reading (DVA) adapter
with a good VOM. The Fluke *a Kit is highly recommended by out
Technical Service Department. The charts in the back of this
brochure give the readings for a majority of the engines. On an
engine with a split Ignition, if only one side fires, compare the
readings between the sides. Typically, the DVA readings for
Yamaha and Suzuki will be close to that of Mercury Outboard. A
simple test on rectifier/regulators (except OMC
rectifier/regulators without cooling fins on the bottom) can
sometimes be a time-saver. with the engine running at
approximately 1200-1500 RPM. DVA test from each yellow Wire to
engine ground. The readings should be within 11/2 volts of each
other, i.e., if one Wire reads 20 volts - the other has to read
between 18 1/2 and 21 1/2 volts. If one Wire reads low, mark the
Stator and rectifier Wire with the low reading, shut the engine
down and swap Stator wires. Crank the engine up and repeat the
test. Whichever part with the striped Wire that has the low
reading is bad. Repeat the test for yellow wires to the red Wire
going to the battery / solenoid. |
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| B. DC Voltage |
| Most battery CD Ignition modules are sensitive
to low battery voltage and battery reversal. During cranking, a
DC voltage level at the pack of less than 9 !/2 Volts is
unacceptable and indicates a problem in the Harness, keyswitch,
starter or battery. WOT voltages above 16 volts will blow most
battery ignitions. Problem is likely to be either the battery or
cables. |
|
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| VIII. Current Measurements |
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| This is a good way to check the
regulator/rectifier battery charging operation in the charging
system. The 10 amp charging system can be checked with a good VOM
that has up to 10 amp capability (Fluke 29,73,88, etc.). The red
Wire is disconnected from the rectifier, the one meter probe is
placed on the connection, and the other is placed on the red
Wire. |
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| Warning! Make sure you do not exceed 10 amps or
touch ground with one probe. This could damage the meter.
The 35 amp charging system requires an inductive pick up or a
high current amp adapter, such as CD/Rapair's 511-9772 (1-400
amp). Remember, on outboard charging systems at idle speed the
current is @ 1/5 of the current rated. |
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| IX. Battery CD Tester |
| |
| This is used to test battery CD modules on the
engine by replacing the points or triggering device
electronically. The CDI 511-9701 Battery CD Tester is highly
recommended due to its ability to fire the Ignition systems up to
3000 RPM without the engine running. It can be used to test the
CD module, distributor cap, Ignition coil and plug wires.
Additionally, the tester can be used to test Mercury Outboard EFI
injectors. |
|
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| X. EFI Tester |
| |
| Electronic fuel injection testers are available
for use with the specific type of EFI system it was designed for.
Use of these testers are not covered in this brochure. |
|
| |
| XI. Trigger Tester |
| |
| A break through by CDI/RAPAIR (511-9710) allows
you to test most Mercury Outboard, Mariner, Force Outboard Motor,
Chrysler triggers and OMC's Quick Start timer bases on the
engine. The Unit can be used to test points, preamp triggers,
Mercury Outboard battery CD triggers, hall effect triggers,
Alternator driven Ignition triggers, and can be used to check
injection Pulse from Mercury Outboard EFI modules. |
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Tricks to Testing with Minimal Test
Equipment
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all Engines
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| Intermittent Firing: This problem can be very hard to
isolate. A good inductive tachometer (fluke 88 is recommended)
can be used to compare RPM on all cylinders up through wide open
throttle. A big difference on one or two cylinders indicates a
problem. |
|
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| Two or more cylinders misfiring: It is recommended that both
power packs be replaced, unless the problem is a bad
Trigger. |
|
|
| Engine continuously blows power packs: When an engine starts
blowing power packs repeatedly, especially on the same cylinders,
replace the Ignition coils on those cylinders. The inductive
kickback from a bad coil can destroy the packs, even if the coils
check good with all known tests. A Stator that test good can also
be sending spike voltages to the packs causing them to fail
repeatedly. |
|
|
| Visually check the Stator, Trigger and flywheel: Cracks,
burned marks and bubbling on the Stator or Trigger indicate a
severe problem. If the Stator shows bubbling around the battery
charge windings, more than likely you will have to replace the
rectifier/regulator in addition to the Stator. Signs of rubbing
on the flywheel usually indicate a bad upper or lower Bearing.
Check both the outer Trigger magnets for signs of cracking and to
be sure that they are not loose. |
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OMC
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|
| Open type timer bases: When all cylinders fire with the spark
plugs out, but one or more cylinders quit when the spark plugs
are reinstalled, regapping the timer base may solve this
problem. Please refer to the Troubleshooting guide for OMC power
packs and CD's item #8. |
|
| Quick Start timer bases: These timer bases cannot be checked
like the other timer bases. Please refer to the Troubleshooting
guide for OMC power packs and CD,s item #5. |
|
| Engines with SLOW features: If the complaint is that the
engine will not slow down after a few minutes and starts shaking
real bad, (but the engine is NOT overheated) try replacing the
temperature switch (the one with the white/black and tan wires
coming out). Check routing of tan wires. Relocate as far from the
spark plug wires as possible. Check blocking diode in engine
Harness. |
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|
Mercury Outboard 6 Cylinder with ADI
Ignition
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|
| No fire on the 1,3,5 or 2,4,6: Swap red and red/white wires,
also blue with blue/white wires. If the problem moves to the
other set of cylinders, the Stator is at fault. Disconnect
rectifier and retest. If the engine fires normally, replace the
rectifier. If no change, we recommend replacement of the Stator.
If you replace the Stator and the problem remains try another
flywheel, if possible. |
|
| No fire on one cylinder: Since this condition can be caused
by the opposite switch box (pack), disconnect the white/black
jumper between the packs and retest. If the dead cylinder starts
firing, replace the pack that was firing all three cylinders. As
a verification, swap the Trigger and spark plug Wire to the
cylinder closest to the dead cylinder, (i.e., if #1 is dead, swap
the brown Trigger Wire with the white one). If the problem moves
to #3, replace the opposite power pack (switch box). If #1 is
still dead, swap the green and green/white coil wires. If the
problem moves to #3, replace the power pack (switch box). Please
remember to put the Trigger wires in the correct order after you
finish. |
|
| Always check the bias circuit: Disconnect the jumper between
the packs on the white/black posts. Check the resistance from the
white/black posts on each pack to engine ground. Standard packs
will read from 13-15,000 ohms. Racing boxes will read
approximately 9,600 ohms. MAKE SURE THAT the BIAS Reading is the
Same on BOTH Packs!!! If the bias is out of specification on one
pack you must replace both packs to prevent future damage. This
circuit effects Ignition timing and could cause a powerhead
failure. |
| for more detailed information, please refer to the
Troubleshooting guides on the other pages. |
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Troubleshooting OMC Battery CD
ignitions
|
|
|
| Recommended Tools: |
| for DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773 Peak Adapter, (or CD-77)
and CDI #511-9770 |
|
CDI #511-9701 Battery CD Tester |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap Tester |
|
Jumper Wires |
|
A Reliable Volt/Ohm Meter (if the CD-&& is used for
the DVA |
| CAUTIon; DO NOT Use A MAINTENANCE FREE Battery
with these TypeS of ignitions As theY TEND To OVERCHARGE and BLOW
the Packs.> Typically 17 Volts +. |
|
| Note: A large portion of the problems with the
battery CD units are caused by low battery voltage or bad ground
connections or high battery voltage. Low Voltage symptoms are
weak erratic firing of cylinders. Misfiring after a few minutes
of running can be caused by excessive (Over 15.5 Volts DC)
voltage at the pack - See #2 below. |
|
| 1) Check all battery and ground
connections. |
|
| 2) Check the Voltage on the red (or purple)
Wire at the CD Unit. |
| If the voltage is less than 9 1/2
volts during the cranking there is a problem in the battery
circuit. These units require at least 9 1/2 volts to fire
properly. Connect a jumper Wire directly from the battery (+)
terminal to the red (or purple) Wire. Retest. ATTENTIon: In order
to kill the engine if it cranks, the jumper Wire must be
disconnected and/or choke the engine. If the engine still fails
to crank, recheck voltage as above. If low, replace the battery
and retry. Warning: Check he voltage on the red (or purple) Wire
at the CD Unit through the RPM range. At no time should the
voltage exceed 15.5 Volts DC. |
|
| |
| 3) Disconnect points and/or sensor Wire and
connect a battery tester. |
| Hook up the Battery CD Tester according to the
operators manual and align rotor with spark plug Wire. Connect a
spark gap to all spark plug wires and turn the Ignition switch
on. If the CD Unit fires only to one spark plug Wire, check the
points, sensor, anti-reverse spring and wires for breaks and
shorts. If ANY other spark plug Wire fires besides the one the
rotor is aligned with, the distributor cap and rotor should be
replaced. The Battery CD tester will fire the system to
approximately 3000 RPM. If the Battery CD tester (511-9701) is
not used, strike points Wire against engine ground. for the
sensor, strike the two wires together. The CD Unit should fire
every time. If the CD Unit fails to fire, it is usually bad. |
|
| |
| 4) Points type Ignition. |
| Disconnect points Wire and check voltage on the
points Wire. You should read close to battery voltage with the
key switch on. No voltage means a bad pack. If OK, reconnect the
points Wire. Using the piercing probes (511-9770) connect the DC
volt meter to the points Wire. Turn the switch on and slowly
rotate the flywheel. You should see the voltage fluctuate up and
down. |
|
| |
| 5) Check the Ignition coil. |
| An open, cracked or poorly grounded coil can
burn out a battery CD Unit. |
|
| |
| 6) Check the DVA voltage on the primary input
Wire to the coil. |
| Reading should be approximately 200 volts or
more. |
|
| |
| 7) Simplified bench test: |
 |
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Troubleshooting OMC Power Packs and
CD's
|
|
| Recommended Tools: |
| for DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773 Peak Adapter, (or CDI
#511-9770 Piercing Probes |
|
CDI #5119-710 Trigger tester (for use with '88-'96 V8, V8
Quick Start timer Bases |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap Tester |
|
CDI #553-2697, 553-2698, 553-2699 Pin Removal and Insertion
Tools |
|
CDI #553-9702 Gap Gauge |
|
Jumper Wire |
| Note: If CD-77 is used for DVA, you will need a
good volt/ohm meter. |
|
| NOTICE: Initial DVA readings should be taken with
everything hooked up. |
|
| 1) Check the flywheel for cracked and lose
magnets. |
|
| 2) Disconnect the kill Wire(s) from the pack and
retest. |
| Connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires
and engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch on and off several
times. If at any time, you se DC voltage appearing on the meter,
there is a problem in the battery Harness or the Ignition switch.
NOTE: At no time should you see battery voltage on any kill
wires. |
|
|
| 3) Visually inspect Stator for cracks or
leaks: |
| If found, replace the Stator, Burnt marks of
discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicates a
possible problem with the rectifier. |
|
|
| 4) Unit will not fire: |
| Disconnect the kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for
bare or broken wires on the Unit, Stator and timer base. Measure
DVA voltage of the Stator with everything connected. Readings
should be approximately 150 volts or more. On Standard CD types,
check DVA voltage on the timer base white Wire. Voltage should be
approximately 150 volts or more (Quick Start units usually have
the white Wire tied to ground inside the pack). If the reading is
good on the Stator but low on the white Wire, the timer base is
usually bad. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires,
replace the rectifier. |
|
|
| 5) '88-'98 V6-V8 and 93-98 3 cylinder Quick
Start timer bases: |
| Disconnect the timer base. Using the Fluke
meter, set to ohms scale, and one of the piercing probes, connect
the red lead from the meter to the white Wire in the Amphenol
connector from the timer base. Use the black lead from the meter
and check to all of the pastel colored wires in both connectors
from the timer base. all of the readings should be fairly even,
normally between 1 and 2 meg ohms measured with a Fluke meter.
with the red lead still connected to the white Wire, connect the
black meter lead to the black/white Wire in the opposite
connector from the timer base. You should read approximately 220
ohms. If one or more cylinders are out of line, (I.E. all the
rest are reading 1.2 -1.8 meg ohms and one reads 0.898 or 2.2 meg
ohms) the timer base is usually bad. |
|
| |
| 6) '92-'96 Looper units with optical
triggers: |
| DVA check the Stator. Each set of brown wires
should read at least 150V (950-1050 ohms) and 12 volts between
the two orange wires from the power coil (50 ohms on the gray
sleeved Stator and 97 ohms on the black sleeved Stator). Note:
These units require special spark plugs and the GRAY spark plug
wires. If the pack only fires when you remove the plug connector
containing the kill wires, use a jumper Wire to connect the kill
wires in the pack. If the pack still fires, there is a problem in
the Harness, safety circuit or Ignition switch. A no fire
situation with the jumper in place indicates a bad pack. |
|
| |
| 7) '89-'95 4 Cylinder Looper units: |
| If the engine misses on one cylinder with the
white/black temperature Wire hooked up and does not with it
unhooked, this is usually the timer base causing the
problem. |
|
|
| 8) for PP2, 3, and 4 units: |
| If one or more cylinders will not fire with the
spark plug installed], check the timer base resistance between
sensor leads: PP2, from white/black to black/white; PP3 from
black/white to all all whit/blacks; PP4 1-3 and 2-4, readings
should be 10-20 ohms for all sensor coils. (some of the older
units with the metal cased CD's read 8-14 ohms). Regapping may
solve the problem. CDI Gap Gauge 553-9702 is recommended for PP3
and PP4. To regap, remove the epoxy covering and loosen the small
nuts on the center bolts going thru the heat shield. Loosen the
anchor screws holding down the sensors. Slide the sensor in
toward the Crankshaft until it touches the gap gauge. (553-9702)
or the metal stop at the bottom of the sensor. Paint the face of
the sensor or the Trigger magnet on the flywheel, with a contact
detector, and reinstall the flywheel. Crank the engine over
several times and remove the flywheel, checking to see if the
Trigger magnet is striking the sensor face. |
|
|
| 9) Engine will not kill: |
| Remove the black/yellow kill Wire from the
rubber connector to see if the pin is broken. Check the kill
circuit in the pack by using a jumper Wire connected to the
black/yellow Wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to
ground. If this kills the engine, the kill circuit in the Harness
or the boat is bad, or the Ignition switch is bad. |
|
|
| 10) Coils fire with spark plugs out but not
in: |
| Check for dragging starter or low battery
causing slow cranking speed. DVA test the timer base. |
|
|
| 11) Engine runs rough on one bank (4, 6 and 8
cylinder engines with CD ignitions): |
| DVA check Stator voltage to both sides. The
readings should be fairly equal. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace
the pack on the bank. If unequal, swap banks with the Stator
leads and see if the problem moves with the Stator leads. If it
does, replace the Stator. Disconnect one of the black/yellow kill
wires, AT the Pack. If the problem goes away, replace the pack
that was running smooth as is probably has a bAdBlocking
diode. |
|
| |
| 12) Intermittent firing on one or more
cylinders: |
| Can be caused by low voltage from the Stator of
a bad timer base. DVA test Stator and timer base. Disconnect the
rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the
rectifier. If it doesn't replace the pack |
|
|
| 13) Check for broken wires and terminals; |
| Especially check inside the rubber Amphenol
plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from
the connectors and visually inspect them. |
|
|
|
Troubleshooting Mercury Outboard Battery
CD ignitions
|
|
| Recommended Tools: |
| for DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773 Peak Adapter, (or
CD-77) |
|
CDI #511-9701 Battery CD Tester |
|
CDI #511-9710 Trigger Tester |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap Tester |
|
Jumper Wires |
|
A Reliable Volt/Ohm Meter (it the CD-77 is used for the
DVA) |
| CAUTIon; DO NOT Use A MAINTENANCE FREE Battery
with these TypeS of ignitions As theY TEND To OVERCHARGE and BLOW
the Packs. Typically 17 Volts +. |
|
| Note: A large portion of the problems with the
battery CD units are caused by low battery voltage or bad ground
connections or high battery voltage. Low Voltage symptoms are
weak erratic firing of cylinders. Misfiring after a few minutes
of running can be caused by excessive (Over 15.5 Volts DC)
voltage at the pack. - Warning : Check the voltage on the red (or
purple) Wire at the CD Unit through the RPM range. At no time
should the voltage exceed 15.5 Volts DC. |
| |
|
Warning!! Battery REVERSAL WILL USUALLY DESTROY
Battery CDs and TRIGGERS.
|
|
| 1) Check all battery and ground
connections. |
|
| 2) Dead or no fire until you release the key
switch: |
| Disconnect the Mercury Outboard
switch and reset, if the engine fires, replace the Mercury
Outboard switch. Check the voltage on the red and white Ignition
wires at the CD Unit. If the voltage is less than 9 1/2 volts
during cranking there is a problem in the battery s or the
Ignition switch box. These units require at least 9 1/2 volts to
fire properly. On a 332-2986 switch box, check the voltage on the
brown terminal (white/black for 332-47960 where the Trigger is
hooked up. It requires at least 9V at cranking. DVA check
between the white and black wires (black and blue on 332-4796).
You should read at least 2 1/2 volts at cranking. Connect a
jumper Wire directly from the battery POS (+) terminal to the red
and white Ignition wires (the red Wire is not needed for the CDI
units). CAUTIon: DO NOT Connect the JUMper Wire To the WHITE
Trigger Terminal. Retest: ATTENTIon: in order to kill the
engine if it cranks, the jumper Wire has to be disconnected
and/or choke the engine. If the engine still fails to crank,
recheck voltage as above. If low, replace the battery and retry.
If there is still no fire, disconnect points Wire (or Trigger
wires) and connect the Battery CD tester (511-9701), according to
the instructions in the manual, and align the rotor with a spark
plug Wire. Connect a spark gap tester (511-9766) to all spark
plug wires and turn the Ignition switch on. If the CD Unit fires
to only one spark plug Wire, check points Wire (for breaks or
shorts) or Trigger. If ANY other spark plug fires besides the one
the rotor is aligned with, the distributor cap and rotor should
be replaced. The Battery CD tester will fire the system to
approximately 3000 RPM. If the Battery CD tester is not used, see
related drawings on the Schematic page (following). If the CD
Unit fails to fire with this hookup, it is usually bad. Following
the instructions included with the Trigger Tester (511-9710)
check the Trigger to see if it is good or bad. |
|
|
|
| 3) Engine cranks and fires as long as starter
is engaged: |
| This problem usually indicates a bad
Trigger. |
|
|
|
| 4) Check the Ignition coil. |
| An open, cracked or poorly grounded coil can
burn out a battery CD. |
|
|
|
| 5) Check the DVA voltage on the primary input
Wire to the coil. |
| Using the fluke meter with the peak reading
voltage adapter (5111-9773), or CD 77. The reading should be
approximately 100 volts or more for OEM CD's, and 200+ for CDI
electronics units. |
|
|
|
| 6) Inline engines with internal exhaust
plate: |
| If the engine speeds up when you remove one
spark plug Wire, the internal exhaust plate is more than likely
warped. The following tests can be performed on the bench or on
the engine. NOTE: Disconnect the Trigger mechanism prior to
testing. |
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Basic Mercury Outboard
Schematics
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Troubleshooting Mercury Outboard
Alternator Driven Ignition
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| Recommended Tools: |
| for DVA : |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773 Peak Adapter and: |
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CDI #5119770 Piercing Probes |
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CDI #511-9710 Trigger Tester |
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CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap Tester |
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Jumper Wire |
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A Reliable Volt/Ohm Meter (it the CD-77 is used for the
DVA) |
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| NOTICE: Initial DVA readings should be taken
with everything hooked up. |
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| 1) Disconnect the kill Wire(s): |
| Connect a DC volt meter between the kill wires
and engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch in and off several
times. If, at any time, you see DC voltage on the kill wires,
there is a problem with the Harness of Ignition switch. Battery
voltage on the kill circuit will destroy most CD units. |
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| 2) Visually inspect Stator for cracks or
varnish leakage: |
| If found, replace the Stator. Burned marks or
discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicate a
possible problem with the rectifier. |
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| 3) Unit will not fire: |
| Disconnect kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for
broken or bare wires on the Unit, Stator and Trigger. Check the
DVA voltage of the Stator, (on 3 and 6 cylinder models read from
each red and blue Wire to engine ground; on 4 cylinder models
read between the two red wires and between the two blue wires),
with everything connected. The readings should be approximately
180 volts or more on the blue wires. and 30 or more volts on the
red wires. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires replace
the rectifier. |
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| 4) Engine will not kill: |
| Check the kill circuit in the pack by using a
jumper Wire connected to the black/yellow terminal or Wire coming
out of the pack and shorting to ground. If this kills the engine,
the kill circuit in the Harness or on the boat is bad, possibly
the Ignition switch. |
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| 5) High Speed Miss: |
| Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the miss
is gone, the rectifier is usually at fault. If the miss still
exists, check the DVA voltage (between the red wires on 4
cylinder, or red wires to engine ground on 3 &6 cylinder) of
the Stator at high speed. NOTICE: Use caution when doing this and
do not exceed the rated voltage range of your meter. The readings
should show a smooth climb in voltage. If there is a sudden or
fast drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent, the
Stator is usually at fault. If there is no indication of the
problem, it could be a small water leak in one or two
cylinders. |
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| 6) Coils fire with spark plugs out but not
in: |
| Check for dragging starter or low battery
causing slow cranking speed. DVA test Stator and Trigger.
Disconnect rectifier, regulator and retest. If the problem goes
away, replace the rectifier and/or regulator. |
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| 7) Engine runs rough on top or bottom two
cylinders (4 cylinder engines): |
| Check DVA voltage of the Stator between blue
wires and to ground. Readings to ground should be fairly equal.
If unequal, swap Stator leads (blue with blue/white, red with
red/white) and see if the problem moves with the Stator leads. If
it does, replace the Stator. Check Trigger resistance between #1
& #2, compare to resistance between #3 & #4. The readings
should be approximately 850 to 1250 ohms for OEM (950 ohms for
CDI). for test purposes only, swap the Trigger leads 1 &3,
and 2 &4. If the problem moves, replace the Trigger. If it
does not move, swap coil primary wires, and replace the pack if
the problem remains on the same cylinder. |
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| 8) No fire on one bank (odd or even cylinders
on inline 6 cylinder engines): |
| Check the DVA voltage of the Stator, checking
from each red Wire to engine ground. The readings should be
approximately 180 volts or more on the blue wires and 30 or more
on the red wires. if a DVA meter is not available, swap both sets
of the Stator wires between the packs. If the problem moves,
replace the Stator. If the problem stays on the same bank, swap
physical location and all connections of the two packs. If the
problem stays with one pack, replace the pack. NOTE: If the pack
is bad, it is recommended that BOTH packs be replaced if the
packs are not manufactured by CDI or Rapair. If the packs
lose ground, internally or externally, the packs manufactured by
other sources usually have severe damage to the bias circuit and
need to be replaced as a set. The packs manufactured by CDI will
withstand loss of ground connection, normally with no damage to
the bias circuitry. In most cases you will just lose fire. |
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| 9) Intermittent firing on one or more
cylinders: |
| Disconnect the white/black Wire between the
packs on a 6 cylinder and retest. If all cylinders now fire,
replace both packs as there is a problem in the bias circuitry.
On all others, check for low voltage from the Stator and Trigger.
Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears,
replace the rectifier. |
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| 10) all cylinders fire but the engine will not
crank and run: |
| On 3 and 6 cylinder engines, disconnect
white/black Wire and check the bias circuit (white/black
terminals) resistance to engine ground. Readings should be
approximately 15,000 Ohms for Standard packs and 9,600 Ohms for
racing units. If the readings are correct on the packs, index the
flywheel and check the timing on all individual cylinders. If the
timing varies, replace the pack. On 4 cylinder engines the bias
circuit is internal, therefore the only way to verify proper
operation of the bias circuit is to index the flywheel and check
the timing on each cylinder. If the timing is off, replace the
packs. |
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CDI Troubleshooting home page
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