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Troubleshooting OMC Power Packs and
CD's
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******* This information is supplied as a
service guide only and Outboardparts.com is not liable for any
misunderstandings, errors or omissions regarding this
information. The information has been obtained from actual Unit
analysis, parts manuals, and other sources. ********
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| Recommended
Tools: |
| for
DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with
CDI #511-9773 Peak Adapter, (or CDI #511-9770 Piercing
Probes |
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CDI #5119-710 Trigger
tester (for use with '88-'96 V8, V8 Quick Start timer
Bases |
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CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap
Tester |
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CDI #553-2697, 553-2698,
553-2699 Pin Removal and Insertion Tools |
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CDI #553-9702 Gap
Gauge |
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Jumper
Wire |
| Note: If CD-77 is used for DVA, you will need a good
volt/ohm meter. |
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| NOTICE: Initial DVA readings should be taken with
everything hooked up. |
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| 1) Check the
flywheel for cracked and loose magnets. |
| Be sure the magnets are secure. |
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| 2)
Disconnect the kill Wire(s) from the pack and
retest. |
| Connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires
and engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch on and off several
times. If at any time, you se DC voltage appearing on the meter,
there is a problem in the battery Harness or the Ignition switch.
NOTE: At no time should you see battery voltage on any kill
wires. |
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| 3) Visually
inspect Stator for cracks or leaks: |
| If found, replace the Stator, Burnt marks of
discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicates a
possible problem with the rectifier. |
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| 4) Unit will
not fire: |
| Disconnect the kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for
bare or broken wires on the Unit, Stator and timer base. Measure
DVA voltage of the Stator with everything connected. Readings
should be approximately 150 volts or more. On Standard CD types,
check DVA voltage on the timer base white Wire. Voltage should be
approximately 150 volts or more (Quick Start units usually have
the white Wire tied to ground inside the pack). If the reading is
good on the Stator but low on the white Wire, the timer base is
usually bad. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires,
replace the rectifier. |
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| 5) '88-'98
V6-V8 and 93-98 3 cylinder Quick Start timer
bases: |
| Disconnect the timer base. Using the Fluke
meter, set to ohms scale, and one of the piercing probes, connect
the red lead from the meter to the white Wire in the Amphenol
connector from the timer base. Use the black lead from the meter
and check to all of the pastel colored wires in both connectors
from the timer base. all of the readings should be fairly even,
normally between 1 and 2 meg ohms measured with a Fluke meter.
with the red lead still connected to the white Wire, connect the
black meter lead to the black/white Wire in the opposite
connector from the timer base. You should read approximately 220
ohms. If one or more cylinders are out of line, (I.E. all the
rest are reading 1.2 -1.8 meg ohms and one reads 0.898 or 2.2 meg
ohms) the timer base is usually bad. |
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| 6) '92-'96
Looper units with optical triggers: |
| DVA check the Stator. Each set of brown wires
should read at least 150V (950-1050 ohms) and 12 volts between
the two orange wires from the power coil (50 ohms on the gray
sleeved Stator and 97 ohms on the black sleeved Stator). Note:
These units require special spark plugs and the GRAY spark plug
wires. If the pack only fires when you remove the plug connector
containing the kill wires, use a jumper Wire to connect the kill
wires in the pack. If the pack still fires, there is a problem in
the Harness, safety circuit or Ignition switch. A no fire
situation with the jumper in place indicates a bad pack. |
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| 7) '89-'95 4
Cylinder Looper units: |
| If the engine misses on one cylinder with the
white/black temperature Wire hooked up and does not with it
unhooked, this is usually the timer base causing the
problem. |
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| 8) for PP2,
3, and 4 units: |
| If one or more cylinders will not fire with the
spark plug installed], check the timer base resistance between
sensor leads: PP2, from white/black to black/white;
PP3
from black/white to all all
whit/blacks; PP4 1-3 and 2-4, readings should be 10-20 ohms for
all sensor coils. (some of the older units with the metal cased
CD's read 8-14 ohms). Regapping may solve the problem. CDI Gap
Gauge 553-9702 is recommended for PP3 and PP4. To regap, remove
the epoxy covering and loosen the small nuts on the center bolts
going thru the heat shield. Loosen the anchor screws holding down
the sensors. Slide the sensor in toward the Crankshaft until it
touches the gap gauge. (553-9702) or the metal stop at the bottom
of the sensor. Paint the face of the sensor or the Trigger magnet
on the flywheel, with a contact detector, and reinstall the
flywheel. Crank the engine over several times and remove the
flywheel, checking to see if the Trigger magnet is striking the
sensor face. |
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| 9) Engine
will not kill: |
| Remove the black/yellow kill Wire from the
rubber connector to see if the pin is broken. Check the kill
circuit in the pack by using a jumper Wire connected to the
black/yellow Wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to
ground. If this kills the engine, the kill circuit in the Harness
or the boat is bad, or the Ignition switch is bad. |
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| 10) Coils
fire with spark plugs out but not in: |
| Check for dragging starter or low battery
causing slow cranking speed. DVA test the timer base. |
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| 11) Engine
runs rough on one bank (4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines with CD
ignitions): |
| DVA check Stator voltage to both sides. The
readings should be fairly equal. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace
the pack on the bank. If unequal, swap banks with the Stator
leads and see if the problem moves with the Stator leads. If it
does, replace the Stator. Disconnect one of the black/yellow kill
wires, AT the Pack. If the problem goes away, replace the pack
that was running smooth as is probably has a bAdBlocking
diode. |
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| 12)
Intermittent firing on one or more
cylinders: |
| Can be caused by low voltage from the Stator of
a bad timer base. DVA test Stator and timer base. Disconnect the
rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the
rectifier. If it doesn't replace the pack. |
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| 13) Check
for broken wires and terminals; |
| Especially check inside the rubber Amphenol
plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from
the connectors and visually inspect them. |
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OMC
Troubleshooting Home page
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