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Introduction
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********
The electronic data in this
Section has largely been supplied by CDI electronics, a division
of Rapair, Inc. CDI electronics has been the leader in
outboard marine Ignition technology since 1983, and their
products are marketed under the name of "Quick Strike
ignitions". Outboardparts.com features CDI Electronic
Products throughout our site. This information is supplied as a
service guide only and Outboardparts.com is not liable for any misunderstandings, errors or
omissions regarding this information. The information has been
obtained from actual Unit analysis, parts manuals, and other
sources. ********
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| The purpose of this brochure is to give the marine technician
a general overview or the types of test equipment and their
use. The most common, easy to use, test equipment will be
covered. |
| Due to the rapid development of computerized EFI (Electronic
Fuel Injection) and ECU Ignition systems, more complicated and
expensive test equipment will be developed for the marine
industry, just as it has been developed for the automotive
industry. Some newer equipment will include the use of scope
meters (such as the Fluke 98), ECU and EFI testers, digital
analyzers, and computer interface testers. Hopefully, the newer
test equipment will be user friendly and many Troubleshooting
problems will be diagnosed with less complicated equipment. |
|
| The test procedures at the end of this brochure are intended
to give the technician a better understanding of the most common
failures and allow testing with minimal equipment. |
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Test Equipment and
Measurements
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| I. VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter)
Multimeter |
|
A. Analog
meter - The analog VOM is a
dial/needle movement with multiple switch settings and ranges on
each setting. This meter usually requires "calibrating"
of the scale before use.
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|
They normally consume
batteries at a fast rate.
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|
| B. Digital meter
- The digital VOM uses a digital display to
indicate the readings. Of the following types, the manual and
autoranging are the most popular |
|
| 1. Manual range setting - The measurement range is selected by a switch, i.e. 20 ohm,
200 ohm, 2k ohm, 200k ohm and 20M ohm. The symbol for ohms
is W. |
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| 2. Autoranging - A true
autoranging meter will automatically select the correct range for
the measurement being taken, i.e., you can measure 20 ohms and 2k
ohms without changing anything on the meter. The Type of
measurement still has to be manually selected, i.e., AC Volts, DC
Volts, Ohms, AC Amps and DC Amps. |
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| 3. Manual / Autoranging - Some meters have both manual and automatic settings,
i.e., the Fluke 88, Fluke 29, etc. |
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| 4. Ranges - As a reminder,
when referring to electronics, the k is 1000, i.e., 1k ohm is
1000 ohms and 20k ohms is 20,000 ohms. The M is 1,000,000
i.e., 2M ohm is 2,000,000 ohms. |
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| II. Peak Reading Voltage
Measurement |
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|
A. DVA (Peak Reading)
Voltmeters - Specialty meters
for measuring average DC voltages and AC voltage spikes on
Ignition systems. Some of the more common meters include the
Stevens CD-77, Merc-o-tronic and ESI meters with DVA
ranges. |
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B. Multi-use Voltmeters with DVA
Adapters - Analog or digital VOM
(volt, ohm meters) using a plug-in DVA adapter to measure DVA
voltages. Accuracy varies quite a bit between manufacturers and
types of meters when taking DVA readings. The CDI/Rapair 511-9773
peak adapter is highly recommended for use with all Fluke
meters. |
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| III. RPM (Tachometer)
Measurements |
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A. Inductive Tach
Measurements |
| This type measurement is made by clamping an
inductive pickup probe on one of the spark plug wires. Very few
of the inductive systems will work well on two cycle CD ignitions
due to the RF and microwave noise being generated. The Fluke 88
Multimeter used with the CDI/Rapair 511-9788B two cycle adapter,
is highly recommended. The Merc-o-Tronic Inductive
Tach and the CDI/Rapair Tach Adapter (P/N 511-9785) are
some of the units recommended for both two and four cycle
service. Inductive tachometers can be a real time-saver
when trying to find a high speed miss by comparing the readings
on all cylinders, i.e., if one or two cylinders shows a big
difference in comparison to the other cylinders. The use of
inductive tachometers is recommended for detection of double
firing cylinders. If one cylinder shows twice the RPM of the
other cylinders, it is probably double firing. |
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B. Reflective Tach
Measurements - These are optical
tachometers, that use a piece of reflective tape on the flywheel
or pulley. |
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C. Contact Tachometer
- NOT RECOMMENDED for Outboard Use. |
| Uses a center hub rotator and counts the
RPM.. |
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D. Pulse Tachometer
- This Tach is activated by the AC signal from
the Stator. The RPM signal is related to the number of
Pulses received from the Stator. |
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| IV. Temperature
Measurements |
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A. Thermocouple / Meter
System |
| This is probably one of the most useful systems.
The Fluke 51 and 52 temperature meters, or the accessory
temperature attachments for the Fluke meters, are capable of
measuring exhaust gas temperature, water temperature, head and
block temperature. Various probes are available for different
types of measurement with the bead probe being one of the most
useful. The bead probe can be positioned on the block with the
use of duct tape. |
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B. Infrared Temperature
Probes |
| They can be used to measure temperature at
various points on the engine or water temperature without
contact. However, some running engines generate too much
electronic static and will interfere with the infrared sensor
readings. Holding the temperature probe too close may cause
the Ignition noise to ruin the Unit. |
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C. Temperature Sticks, Paint or
Labels |
| These can be used for quick measurementof over
heating conditions. |
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| V. Pulse Measurements / Frequency
Measurements |
| This is a good method to check electronic fuel
injection systems (EFI). A measurement of the injector Pulses at
a set RPM can determine if the injection system is performing
properly. At the current time there are few recorded
measurements on the various EFI systems. The Fluke 88 meter is
one of the meters designed to measure EFI Pulse
rates. |
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| VI. Resistance
Measurements |
| This is one of the first and easiest
measurements that needs to be taken on an Ignition
system. The charts in the back of this brochure are
furnished as a guide. Be aware that temperature can make a
slight difference in the readings. The higher the temperature -
the higher the resistance reading is going to be. One final note,
a Stator or Trigger can test fine with an ohmmeter and still be
bad. |
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| VII. Current
Measurements |
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A. Direct Volt Amps
(DVA) |
| One of the most important
measurements to be taken on Ignition systems are voltage
measurements using a DVA meter, or peak reading (DVA) adapter
with a good VOM. The Fluke *a Kit is highly recommended by out
Technical Service Department. The charts in the back of this
brochure give the readings for a majority of the engines. On an
engine with a split Ignition, if only one side fires, compare the
readings between the sides. Typically, the DVA readings for
Yamaha and Suzuki will be close to that of Mercury Outboard. A
simple test on rectifier/regulators (except OMC
rectifier/regulators without cooling fins on the bottom) can
sometimes be a time-saver. with the engine running at
approximately 1200-1500 RPM. DVA test from each yellow Wire to
engine ground. The readings should be within 11/2 volts of each
other, i.e., if one Wire reads 20 volts - the other has to read
between 18 1/2 and 21 1/2 volts. If one Wire reads low,
mark the Stator and rectifier Wire with the low reading, shut the
engine down and swap Stator wires. Crank the engine up and repeat
the test. Whichever part with the striped Wire that has the low
reading is bad. Repeat the test for yellow wires to the red Wire
going to the battery / solenoid. |
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B. DC Voltage |
| Most battery CD Ignition modules are sensitive
to low battery voltage and battery reversal. During cranking, a
DC voltage level at the pack of less than 9 !/2 Volts is
unacceptable and indicates a problem in the Harness, keyswitch,
starter or battery. WOT voltages above 16 volts will blow most
battery ignitions. Problem is likely to be either the battery or
cables. |
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| VIII. Current
Measurements |
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| This is a good way to check the
regulator/rectifier battery charging operation in the charging
system. The 10 amp charging system can be checked with a good VOM
that has up to 10 amp capability (Fluke 29,73,88, etc.). The red
Wire is disconnected from the rectifier, the one meter probe is
placed on the connection, and the other is placed on the red
Wire. |
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| Warning! Make sure you do
not exceed 10 amps or touch ground with one
probe. This could damage the meter. The 35
amp charging system requires an inductive pick up or a high
current amp adapter, such as CD/Rapair's 511-9772 (1-400
amp). Remember, on outboard charging systems at idle speed the
current is @ 1/5 of the current rated. |
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| IX. Battery CD
Tester |
| |
| This is used to test battery CD modules on the
engine by replacing the points or triggering device
electronically. The CDI 511-9701 Battery CD Tester is highly
recommended due to its ability to fire the Ignition systems up to
3000 RPM without the engine running. It can be used to test the
CD module, distributor cap, Ignition coil and plug wires.
Additionally, the tester can be used to test Mercury Outboard EFI
injectors. |
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| X. EFI Tester |
| |
| Electronic fuel injection testers are available
for use with the specific type of EFI system it was designed for.
Use of these testers are not covered in this brochure. |
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| |
| XI. Trigger
Tester |
| |
| A break through by CDI/RAPAIR (511-9710) allows
you to test most Mercury Outboard, Mariner, Chrysler triggers and
OMC's Quick Start timer bases on the engine. The Unit can be
used to test points, preamp triggers, Mercury Outboard battery CD
triggers, hall effect triggers, Alternator driven Ignition
triggers, and can be used to check injection Pulse from Mercury
Outboard EFI modules. |
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Tricks to Testing
with Minimal Test Equipment
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all
Engines
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| Intermittent Firing:
This problem can be very hard to isolate. A good
inductive tachometer (fluke 88 is recommended) can be used to
compare RPM on all cylinders up through wide open throttle. A big
difference on one or two cylinders indicates a
problem. |
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| Two or more cylinders
misfiring: It is recommended
that both power packs be replaced, unless the problem is a bad
Trigger. |
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| Engine continuously blows power
packs: When an engine starts
blowing power packs repeatedly, especially on the same cylinders,
replace the Ignition coils on those cylinders. The inductive
kickback from a bad coil can destroy the packs, even if the coils
check good with all known tests. A Stator that test good can also
be sending spike voltages to the packs causing them to fail
repeatedly. |
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| Visually check the Stator, Trigger
and flywheel: Cracks, burned
marks and bubbling on the Stator or Trigger indicate a severe
problem. If the Stator shows bubbling around the battery charge
windings, more than likely you will have to replace the
rectifier/regulator in addition to the Stator. Signs of rubbing
on the flywheel usually indicate a bad upper or lower Bearing.
Check both the outer Trigger magnets for signs of cracking and to
be sure that they are not loose. |
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OMC
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| Open type timer
bases: When all cylinders fire
with the spark plugs out, but one or more cylinders quit when the
spark plugs are reinstalled, regapping the timer base may solve
this problem. Please refer to the Troubleshooting guide for
OMC power packs and CD's item #8. |
|
| Quick Start timer
bases: These timer bases
cannot be checked like the other timer bases. Please refer to the
Troubleshooting guide for OMC power packs and CD,s item
#5. |
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| Engines with SLOW
features: If the complaint is
that the engine will not slow down after a few minutes and starts
shaking real bad, (but the engine is NOT overheated) try
replacing the temperature switch (the one with the white/black
and tan wires coming out). Check routing of tan wires. Relocate
as far from the spark plug wires as possible. Check blocking
diode in engine Harness. |
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Mercury Outboard 6
Cylinder with ADI Ignition
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| No fire on the 1,3,5 or
2,4,6: Swap red and red/white
wires, also blue with blue/white wires. If the problem moves to
the other set of cylinders, the Stator is at fault. Disconnect
rectifier and retest. If the engine fires normally, replace the
rectifier. If no change, we recommend replacement of the Stator.
If you replace the Stator and the problem remains try another
flywheel, if possible. |
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| No fire on one
cylinder: Since this condition
can be caused by the opposite switch Box (pack), disconnect the
white/black jumper between the packs and retest. If the dead
cylinder starts firing, replace the pack that was firing all
three cylinders. As a verification, swap the Trigger and spark
plug Wire to the cylinder closest to the dead cylinder, (i.e., if
#1 is dead, swap the brown Trigger Wire with the white one). If
the problem moves to #3, replace the opposite power pack (switch
Box). If #1 is still dead, swap the green and green/white coil
wires. If the problem moves to #3, replace the power pack (switch
Box). Please remember to put the Trigger wires in the correct
order after you finish. |
|
| Always check the bias
circuit: Disconnect the jumper
between the packs on the white/black posts. Check the resistance
from the white/black posts on each pack to engine ground.
Standard packs will read from 13-15,000 ohms. Racing Boxes will
read approximately 9,600 ohms. MAKE SURE THAT the BIAS Reading is
the Same on BOTH Packs!!! If the bias is out of specification on
one pack you must replace both packs to prevent future damage.
This circuit effects Ignition timing and could cause a powerhead
failure. |
| for more detailed information, please refer to the
Troubleshooting guides on the other pages. |
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Troubleshooting OMC
Battery CD ignitions
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| Recommended
Tools: |
| for DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773
Peak Adapter, (or CD-77) and CDI #511-9770 |
|
CDI #511-9701 Battery CD
Tester |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap
Tester |
|
Jumper Wires |
|
A Reliable Volt/Ohm Meter (if the
CD-&& is used for the DVA |
| CAUTIon; DO NOT Use A
MAINTENANCE FREE Battery with these TypeS of ignitions As theY
TEND To OVERCHARGE and BLOW the Packs.> Typically 17 Volts
+. |
|
| Note: A large portion of the problems with the
battery CD units are caused by low battery voltage or bad ground
connections or high battery voltage. Low Voltage symptoms are
weak erratic firing of cylinders. Misfiring after a few minutes
of running can be caused by excessive (Over 15.5 Volts DC)
voltage at the pack - See #2 below. |
|
| 1) Check all battery and ground
connections. |
|
| 2) Check the Voltage on the red (or purple) Wire at the CD
Unit. |
| If the voltage is less than 9 1/2
volts during the cranking there is a problem in the battery
circuit. These units require at least 9 1/2 volts to fire
properly. Connect a jumper Wire directly from the battery (+)
terminal to the red (or purple) Wire. Retest. ATTENTIon: In order
to kill the engine if it cranks, the jumper Wire must be
disconnected and/or choke the engine. If the engine still fails
to crank, recheck voltage as above. If low, replace the battery
and retry. Warning:
Check he voltage on the red (or purple) Wire at
the CD Unit through the RPM range. At no time should the voltage
exceed 15.5 Volts DC. |
|
| |
| 3) Disconnect points and/or sensor Wire and connect a battery
tester. |
| Hook up the Battery CD Tester according to the
operators manual and align rotor with spark plug Wire. Connect a
spark gap to all spark plug wires and turn the Ignition switch
on. If the CD Unit fires only to one spark plug Wire, check the
points, sensor, anti-reverse spring and wires for breaks and
shorts. If ANY other spark plug Wire fires besides the one the
rotor is aligned with, the distributor cap and rotor should be
replaced. The Battery CD tester will fire the system to
approximately 3000 RPM. If the Battery CD tester (511-9701) is
not used, strike points Wire against engine ground. for the
sensor, strike the two wires together. The CD Unit should fire
every time. If the CD Unit fails to fire, it is usually bad. |
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| |
| 4) Points type Ignition. |
| Disconnect points Wire and check voltage on the
points Wire. You should read close to battery voltage with the
key switch on. No voltage means a bad pack. If OK, reconnect the
points Wire. Using the piercing probes (511-9770) connect the DC
volt meter to the points Wire. Turn the switch on and slowly
rotate the flywheel. You should see the voltage fluctuate up and
down. |
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| |
| 5) Check the Ignition coil. |
| An open, cracked or poorly grounded coil can
burn out a battery CD Unit. |
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| |
| 6) Check the DVA voltage on the primary input Wire to the
coil. |
| Reading should be approximately 200 volts or
more. |
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| 7) Simplified bench test: |
 |
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Troubleshooting OMC
Power Packs and CD's
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| Recommended
Tools: |
| for DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773
Peak Adapter, (or CDI #511-9770 Piercing
Probes |
|
CDI #5119-710 Trigger tester (for
use with '88-'96 V8, V8 Quick Start timer
Bases |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap
Tester |
|
CDI #553-2697, 553-2698, 553-2699
Pin Removal and Insertion Tools |
|
CDI #553-9702 Gap
Gauge |
|
Jumper Wire |
| Note:
If CD-77 is used for DVA, you will need a good
volt/ohm meter. |
|
| NOTICE:
Initial DVA readings should be taken with
everything hooked up. |
|
| 1) Check the flywheel
for cracked and lose magnets. |
|
| 2) Disconnect the kill
Wire(s) from the pack and retest. |
| Connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires
and engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch on and off several
times. If at any time, you se DC voltage appearing on the meter,
there is a problem in the battery Harness or the Ignition switch.
NOTE: At no time should you see battery voltage on any kill
wires. |
|
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| 3) Visually inspect
Stator for cracks or leaks: |
| If found, replace the Stator, Burnt marks of
discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicates a
possible problem with the rectifier. |
|
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| 4) Unit will not
fire: |
| Disconnect the kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for
bare or broken wires on the Unit, Stator and timer base. Measure
DVA voltage of the Stator with everything connected. Readings
should be approximately 150 volts or more. On Standard CD types,
check DVA voltage on the timer base white Wire. Voltage should be
approximately 150 volts or more (Quick Start units usually have
the white Wire tied to ground inside the pack). If the reading is
good on the Stator but low on the white Wire, the timer base is
usually bad. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires,
replace the rectifier. |
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| 5) '88-'98
V6-V8 and 93-98 3 cylinder Quick Start timer
bases: |
| Disconnect the timer base. Using the Fluke
meter, set to ohms scale, and one of the piercing probes, connect
the red lead from the meter to the white Wire in the Amphenol
connector from the timer base. Use the black lead from the meter
and check to all of the pastel colored wires in both connectors
from the timer base. all of the readings should be fairly even,
normally between 1 and 2 meg ohms measured with a Fluke meter.
with the red lead still connected to the white Wire, connect the
black meter lead to the black/white Wire in the opposite
connector from the timer base. You should read approximately 220
ohms. If one or more cylinders are out of line, (I.E. all the
rest are reading 1.2 -1.8 meg ohms and one reads 0.898 or 2.2 meg
ohms) the timer base is usually bad. |
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| |
| 6) '92-'96
Looper units with optical triggers: |
| DVA check the Stator. Each set of brown wires
should read at least 150V (950-1050 ohms) and 12 volts between
the two orange wires from the power coil (50 ohms on the gray
sleeved Stator and 97 ohms on the black sleeved Stator). Note:
These units require special spark plugs and the GRAY spark plug
wires. If the pack only fires when you remove the plug connector
containing the kill wires, use a jumper Wire to connect the kill
wires in the pack. If the pack still fires, there is a problem in
the Harness, safety circuit or Ignition switch. A no fire
situation with the jumper in place indicates a bad
pack. |
|
| |
| 7) '89-'95 4
Cylinder Looper units: |
| If the engine misses on one cylinder with the
white/black temperature Wire hooked up and does not with it
unhooked, this is usually the timer base causing the
problem. |
|
|
| 8) for PP2, 3, and 4
units: |
| If one or more cylinders will not fire with the
spark plug installed], check the timer base resistance between
sensor leads: PP2, from white/black to
black/white; PP3
from black/white to all all whit/blacks;
PP4 1-3
and 2-4, readings should be 10-20 ohms for all sensor coils.
(some of the older units with the metal cased CD's read 8-14
ohms). Regapping may solve the problem. CDI Gap Gauge 553-9702 is
recommended for PP3 and PP4. To regap, remove the epoxy covering
and loosen the small nuts on the center bolts going thru the heat
shield. Loosen the anchor screws holding down the sensors. Slide
the sensor in toward the Crankshaft until it touches the gap
gauge. (553-9702) or the metal stop at the bottom of the sensor.
Paint the face of the sensor or the Trigger magnet on the
flywheel, with a contact detector, and reinstall the flywheel.
Crank the engine over several times and remove the flywheel,
checking to see if the Trigger magnet is striking the sensor
face. |
|
|
| 9) Engine will not
kill: |
| Remove the black/yellow kill Wire from the
rubber connector to see if the pin is broken. Check the kill
circuit in the pack by using a jumper Wire connected to the
black/yellow Wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to
ground. If this kills the engine, the kill circuit in the Harness
or the boat is bad, or the Ignition switch is bad. |
|
|
| 10) Coils fire with
spark plugs out but not in: |
| Check for dragging starter or low battery
causing slow cranking speed. DVA test the timer base. |
|
|
| 11) Engine runs rough on
one bank (4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines with CD
ignitions): |
| DVA check Stator voltage to both sides. The
readings should be fairly equal. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace
the pack on the bank. If unequal, swap banks with the Stator
leads and see if the problem moves with the Stator leads. If it
does, replace the Stator. Disconnect one of the black/yellow kill
wires, AT the Pack. If the problem goes away, replace the pack
that was running smooth as is probably has a bAdBlocking
diode. |
|
| |
| 12) Intermittent firing
on one or more cylinders: |
| Can be caused by low voltage from the Stator of
a bad timer base. DVA test Stator and timer base. Disconnect the
rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the
rectifier. If it doesn't replace the pack |
|
|
| 13) Check for broken
wires and terminals; |
| Especially check inside the rubber Amphenol
plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from
the connectors and visually inspect them. |
|
|
|
Troubleshooting
Mercury Outboard Battery CD ignitions
|
|
| Recommended
Tools: |
| for DVA: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI
#511-9773 Peak Adapter, (or CD-77) |
|
CDI #511-9701 Battery CD
Tester |
|
CDI #511-9710 Trigger
Tester |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap
Tester |
|
Jumper Wires |
|
A Reliable Volt/Ohm Meter (it the
CD-77 is used for the DVA) |
| CAUTIon; DO NOT Use A
MAINTENANCE FREE Battery with these TypeS of ignitions As theY
TEND To OVERCHARGE and BLOW the Packs. Typically 17 Volts
+. |
|
| Note:
A large portion of the problems with the battery
CD units are caused by low battery voltage or bad ground
connections or high battery voltage. Low Voltage symptoms
are weak erratic firing of cylinders. Misfiring after a few
minutes of running can be caused by excessive (Over 15.5 Volts
DC) voltage at the pack. - Warning
: Check the voltage on the red
(or purple) Wire at the CD Unit through the RPM range. At no time
should the voltage exceed 15.5 Volts DC. |
| |
|
Warning!! Battery REVERSAL
WILL USUALLY DESTROY Battery CDs and
TRIGGERS.
|
|
| 1) Check all battery and ground
connections. |
|
| 2) Dead
or no fire until you release the key
switch: |
| Disconnect the Mercury Outboard
switch and reset, if the engine fires, replace the Mercury
Outboard switch. Check the voltage on the red and white Ignition
wires at the CD Unit. If the voltage is less than 9 1/2 volts
during cranking there is a problem in the battery s or the
Ignition switch Box. These units require at least 9 1/2 volts to
fire properly. On a 332-2986 switch Box, check the voltage on the
brown terminal (white/black for 332-47960 where the Trigger is
hooked up. It requires at least 9V at cranking. DVA check
between the white and black wires (black and blue on 332-4796).
You should read at least 2 1/2 volts at cranking. Connect a
jumper Wire directly from the battery POS (+) terminal to the red
and white Ignition wires (the red Wire is not needed for the CDI
units). CAUTIon: DO NOT Connect the JUMper Wire To the WHITE
Trigger Terminal. Retest: ATTENTIon: in order to
kill the engine if it cranks, the jumper Wire has to be
disconnected and/or choke the engine. If the engine still fails
to crank, recheck voltage as above. If low, replace the battery
and retry. If there is still no fire, disconnect points Wire (or
Trigger wires) and connect the Battery CD tester (511-9701),
according to the instructions in the manual, and align the rotor
with a spark plug Wire. Connect a spark gap tester (511-9766) to
all spark plug wires and turn the Ignition switch on. If the CD
Unit fires to only one spark plug Wire, check points Wire (for
breaks or shorts) or Trigger. If ANY other spark plug fires
besides the one the rotor is aligned with, the distributor cap
and rotor should be replaced. The Battery CD tester will fire the
system to approximately 3000 RPM. If the Battery CD tester is not
used, see related drawings on the Schematic page (following). If
the CD Unit fails to fire with this hookup, it is usually bad.
Following the instructions included with the Trigger Tester
(511-9710) check the Trigger to see if it is good or bad. |
|
|
|
| 3) Engine cranks and fires as long as starter is
engaged: |
| This problem usually indicates a bad
Trigger. |
|
|
|
| 4) Check the Ignition coil. |
| An open, cracked or poorly grounded coil can
burn out a battery CD. |
|
|
|
| 5) Check the DVA voltage on the primary input Wire to the
coil. |
| Using the fluke meter with the peak reading
voltage adapter (5111-9773), or CD 77. The reading should be
approximately 100 volts or more for OEM CD's, and 200+ for
CDI electronics units. |
|
|
|
| 6) Inline engines with internal exhaust
plate: |
| If the engine speeds up when you remove one
spark plug Wire, the internal exhaust plate is more than likely
warped. The following tests can be performed on the bench or on
the engine. NOTE: Disconnect the Trigger mechanism prior to
testing. |
|
|
|
Basic Mercury
Outboard Schematics
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
Troubleshooting
Mercury Outboard Alternator Driven
Ignition
|
|
| Recommended
Tools: |
| for DVA
: |
Fluke Multimeter with CDI #511-9773
Peak Adapter and: |
|
CDI #5119770 Piercing
Probes |
|
CDI #511-9710 Trigger
Tester |
|
CDI #511-9766 Spark Gap
Tester |
|
Jumper Wire |
|
A Reliable Volt/Ohm Meter (it the
CD-77 is used for the DVA) |
|
| NOTICE:
Initial DVA readings should be taken with
everything hooked up. |
|
| 1) Disconnect the kill Wire(s): |
| Connect a DC volt meter between the kill wires
and engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch in and off several
times. If, at any time, you see DC voltage on the kill wires,
there is a problem with the Harness of Ignition switch. Battery
voltage on the kill circuit will destroy most CD units. |
|
|
| 2) Visually inspect Stator for cracks or varnish
leakage: |
| If found, replace the Stator. Burned marks or
discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicate a
possible problem with the rectifier. |
|
|
| 3) Unit
will not fire: |
| Disconnect kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for
broken or bare wires on the Unit, Stator and Trigger. Check the
DVA voltage of the Stator, (on 3 and 6 cylinder models read from
each red and blue Wire to engine ground; on 4 cylinder models
read between the two red wires and between the two blue wires),
with everything connected. The readings should be approximately
180 volts or more on the blue wires. and 30 or more volts on the
red wires. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires replace
the rectifier. |
|
|
| 4) Engine will not kill: |
| Check the kill circuit in the pack by using a
jumper Wire connected to the black/yellow terminal or Wire coming
out of the pack and shorting to ground. If this kills the engine,
the kill circuit in the Harness or on the boat is bad, possibly
the Ignition switch. |
|
|
| 5) High
Speed Miss: |
| Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the miss
is gone, the rectifier is usually at fault. If the miss still
exists, check the DVA voltage (between the red wires on 4
cylinder, or red wires to engine ground on 3 &6 cylinder) of
the Stator at high speed. NOTICE: Use caution when doing this and
do not exceed the rated voltage range of your meter. The readings
should show a smooth climb in voltage. If there is a sudden or
fast drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent, the
Stator is usually at fault. If there is no indication of the
problem, it could be a small water leak in one or two
cylinders. |
|
|
| 6) Coils fire with spark plugs out but not
in: |
| Check for dragging starter or low battery
causing slow cranking speed. DVA test Stator and Trigger.
Disconnect rectifier, regulator and retest. If the problem goes
away, replace the rectifier and/or regulator. |
|
|
| 7) Engine runs rough on top or bottom two cylinders (4 cylinder
engines): |
| Check DVA voltage of the Stator between blue
wires and to ground. Readings to ground should be fairly equal.
If unequal, swap Stator leads (blue with blue/white, red with
red/white) and see if the problem moves with the Stator leads. If
it does, replace the Stator. Check Trigger resistance between #1
& #2, compare to resistance between #3 & #4. The readings
should be approximately 850 to 1250 ohms for OEM (950 ohms for
CDI). for test purposes only, swap the Trigger leads 1 &3,
and 2 &4. If the problem moves, replace the Trigger. If it
does not move, swap coil primary wires, and replace the pack if
the problem remains on the same cylinder. |
|
|
| 8) No
fire on one bank (odd or even cylinders on inline 6 cylinder
engines): |
| Check the DVA voltage of the Stator, checking
from each red Wire to engine ground. The readings should be
approximately 180 volts or more on the blue wires and 30 or more
on the red wires. if a DVA meter is not available, swap both sets
of the Stator wires between the packs. If the problem moves,
replace the Stator. If the problem stays on the same bank, swap
physical location and all connections of the two packs. If the
problem stays with one pack, replace the pack. NOTE: If the pack
is bad, it is recommended that BOTH packs be
replaced if the packs are not manufactured by CDI or
Rapair. If the packs lose ground, internally or
externally, the packs manufactured by other sources usually have
severe damage to the bias circuit and need to be replaced as a
set. The packs manufactured by CDI will withstand loss of ground
connection, normally with no damage to the bias circuitry. In
most cases you will just lose fire. |
|
|
| 9) Intermittent firing on one or more cylinders:
|
| Disconnect the white/black Wire between the
packs on a 6 cylinder and retest. If all cylinders now fire,
replace both packs as there is a problem in the bias circuitry.
On all others, check for low voltage from the Stator and Trigger.
Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears,
replace the rectifier. |
|
|
| 10) all
cylinders fire but the engine will not crank and
run: |
| On 3 and 6 cylinder engines, disconnect
white/black Wire and check the bias circuit (white/black
terminals) resistance to engine ground. Readings should be
approximately 15,000 Ohms for Standard packs and 9,600 Ohms for
racing units. If the readings are correct on the packs, index the
flywheel and check the timing on all individual cylinders. If the
timing varies, replace the pack. On 4 cylinder engines the bias
circuit is internal, therefore the only way to verify proper
operation of the bias circuit is to index the flywheel and check
the timing on each cylinder. If the timing is off, replace the
packs. |
|
| if No fire on ANY
Cylinder: |
|
Disconnect kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for
broken or bare wires on the Unit, Stator or Trigger. Using the
Fluke meter with the CDI 511-9773 Peak Reading Adapter, or CD-77
and CDI 511-9770 piercing probes, measure DVA voltage of the
Stator between the output Wire sets. with everything connected,
reading should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance
readings between the Stator Wire sets is (OEM 980-900
ohms/CDI=250-300 ohms). Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine
fires, replace the rectifier. |
| |
| No fire or INTERMITTENT
on one Cylinder: |
|
Check Stator and Trigger resistance. If readings
are good, disconnect kill Wire from all packs. If the dead
cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode
in one of the other packs. |
| |
| No fire on Two
Cylinders: |
|
If the two cylinders from the same CD Unit will
not fire, the problem is usually in the Stator. Test per
above. |
|
| Engine WILL NOT
Kill: |
|
Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper
Wire connected to the kill Wire coming out of the pack and
shorting it to the ground. If this kills the pack, the kill
circuit in the Harness or on the boat is bad, possibly the
Ignition switch. |
|
| Coils Only fire with the
Spark plugs Out: |
|
Check for dragging starter or low battery causing
slow cranking speed. DVA test Stator and Trigger. |
|
| High SPEED
Miss |
|
Using fluke meter with the CDI 511-9773 peak
reading adapter, (or CD-77) and CDI 511-9770 piercing probes, DVA
check Stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds
400 volts, replace the pack. If the voltage drops below 200V, the
Stator is likely bad. Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the
miss is gone replace the rectifier. |
| |
| 5 Cylinder with Single
Switch Box: |
| NOTE: This Engine uses a
battery powered inverter module to supply the high voltage for
the switch Box. The Inverter is in a 332-4797 switch Box case.
The Unit is easily identifiable by the fact of it only having 4
terminals instead of the usual 7. The Stator is for battery
charging only. |
| |
| No fire on ANY
Cylinder: |
|
|
1.
Check the red Wire from the battery. You should
have at least 9.5 volts while cranking the engine. |
|
|
2.Check DVA voltage on the
purple/white terminal. 0.2 volts or more is needed to Trigger the
inverter Box. If low or no voltage at all- Check the Trigger from
the white/black to the yellow, black, brown, white and purple
Trigger wires. You should have at least 4 volts on each. In the
event you have Trigger voltage but no voltage on the
purple/white, the switch Box is likely bad. |
|
|
3.Check the DVA voltage on
the blue terminal of the inverter module. Should be approximately
200-300 volts at cranking. |
|
| No fire on one
Cylinder |
|
Check the Trigger from
the white/black to the yellow, black, brown, white and purple
Trigger wires. You should have at least 4 volts on
each. |
|
|
all Cylinders fire BUT
Engine WILL NOT Crank and RUN:
|
| Disconnect white/black Wire and check the bias
circuit (white/black terminals) resistance to engine ground.
Readings should be approximately 8400W.
If the readings are correct on the pack, index the flywheel and
check timing on all individual cylinders. If the timing varies,
replace the pack. |
|
| Connections: 2 and 3
cylinder with 116-5301 and 116-8301 power
packs |
|
| Pack #1 (firing #1 and
#2 cylinders) |
|
Trigger: |
Orange |
Pack:
|
White/orange stripe |
|
|
Green |
|
White/yellow stripe |
|
|
Red |
|
White/red stripe |
|
|
White/green stripe |
|
White/green stripe |
| Pack #2 (Firing #3
cylinder) |
|
Trigger: |
Orange |
Pack:
|
White/orange stripe or Blue/orange stripe |
|
|
Green |
|
White/yellow stripe |
|
|
Stator: |
Yellow |
Pack:
|
Brown/blue stripe |
|
|
Blue(must be connected to the blue
and brown/blue stripe on pack 1) |
|
|
Coil #3: |
White |
Pack:
|
Orange/blue stripe or Blue/orange stripe |
| Connections: 4 cylinder
with 116-5301 and 116--8301 power packs |
| |
|
Pack #1 (Firing #1 and #2 cylinders) |
|
Trigger: |
Orange |
Pack:
|
White/orange stripe |
|
|
Green |
|
White/yellow stripe |
|
|
Red |
|
White/red stripe |
|
|
White/green stripe |
|
White/green stripe |
|
|
Stator: |
Yellow |
Pack:
|
Brown/yellow stripe |
|
|
Blue |
|
Brown/blue stripe |
|
|
Coil #1 |
White |
Pack:
|
Orange/blue stripe or Blue/orange stripe |
|
Coil #2 |
White |
Pack:
|
Blue/red stripe |
| |
|
Pack #2 (firing #3 and #4
cylinders) |
|
|
Trigger: |
Orange |
Pack:
|
White/orange stripe |
|
|
Green |
|
White/yellow stripe |
|
|
Red |
|
White/red stripe |
|
|
White/green stripe |
|
White/green stripe |
|
|
Stator: |
Yellow |
Pack:
|
Brown/yellow stripe |
|
|
Blue |
|
Brown/blue stripe |
|
Coil #4 |
White |
Pack:
|
Blue/red stripe |
|
Coil #5 |
White |
Pack:
|
Orange/blue stripe or Blue/orange stripe |
|
| Connections: 5 cylinder
with 116-5301 and 116-8301 power packs |
| |
| Pack #1 (Firing #1 and
#2 cylinders) |
|
Trigger: |
Orange |
Pack:
|
White/orange stripe |
|
|
Green |
|
White/yellow stripe |
|
|
Red |
|
White/red stripe |
|
Mercury
Outboard
|
|
CDI 511-9773 (DVA) Peak
Voltage Adapter and Resistance Chart
|
| |
| YEAR |
HP (Model) |
CD Ignition
OEM CDI/RAPAIR
|
Stator
OEM CDI/RAPAIR
|
Trigger
OEM CDI/RAPAIR see note
4
|
CHG.Coil (APPROX.) OEM CDI/RAPAIR see
note 4
|
Trigger
CRANKING
DVA
|
CHG.Coil
CRANKING
DVA
|
Ignition To Coil
CRANKING
DVA
|
| |
Resistance |
Peak Voltage
|
| '72-'74 |
4-20 |
336-4516
R336-4516 |
336-4470HS 336-4469LS 171-4469/4470 |
Points |
450-550HS 3600-5500LS |
NA |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
180V+ |
| '75-'78 |
4-20 |
339-6222
114-6222 |
339-5209
174-6120K1 |
750-1400 note
9 |
800-900
per coil
|
4V+ |
180V+ |
180V+ |
| '75-'76 |
20 (200) |
332-4911
114-4911 |
398-5255
R398-5255 |
750-1400 note
9 |
180-220HS 5800-7000LS 45-55HS 2000-2500LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
180V+ |
| '78-'94 |
6-40 |
339-7452
114-7452K1 |
86617
174-6617K1 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
200-250HS 5800-700LS 45-55HS 2000-2500LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
180V+ |
| '95 UP |
15/20/25
2 Cylinder.
|
18495
114-4952 |
398-9710
174-9710K1 Note 11 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
75-90HS 3250-3650LS
Note 3
75-90HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
150V+ |
| '70-'71 |
40 |
332-4172
332-4172 |
398-4424 398-4423 174-4424 174-4423 |
CAN NOT Be TESTED with OHM
METER |
105-135HS 2000-2400LS 45-55HS 2300-2600LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
170V+ |
| '75-'78 |
40 (402) |
332-4911
114-4911 |
398-5255
174-5255 |
750-1400 note 9 |
180-220HS 5800-7000LS 45-55HS 2000-2500LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
180V+ |
| '75 |
50-65 |
333-3213
E333-3213 |
333-3176HS 333-3175LS 174-3176/3175 |
Ignition Driver |
9-11HS 385-425LS |
NA |
130V+ |
130V+ |
| '68-'76 |
3 Cylinder.
4 Cylinder.
6 Cylinder.
|
332-2986 332-4796 114-2986 114-4796 |
398-4793 398-4792 174-4793 |
See Mercury Outboard Technical
BulletIN |
Battery |
2.5V NOTE 8 |
None |
120V+ at idle |
| '76-'87 |
3 Cylinder. |
332-7778
114-7778
|
398-5704
174-5454K1 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
135-165HS 5800-7000LS 45-55HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
180V+ |
| '88 UP |
3 Cylinder. |
332-7778
114-7778
|
398-8778
174-8778K1(a) Note 11 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
125-155HS
|
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
150V+ |
| '91-'95 |
50/55/60
45 Jet
3 Cylinder.
|
19052
114-9052
|
398-8778* 398-9710* 174-8778K1(a) 174-9710K1(a) Note
11 |
1200-1400
925-1050 |
75-90HS 3250-3650LS 28-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS
180V+ LS
|
150V+ |
| '96 UP |
3 Cylinder. |
18495
114-4953 |
398-9710* 398-9873* 174-8778K1(a) Note 11 |
1200-1400
925-1050 |
15-35HS 1000-1600LS 25-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| '94 UP |
75/90/65 Jet 3
Cylinder. |
18495
114-4953 |
398-8778* 398-9710* 174-8778K1(a) 174-9710K1(a) Note
11 |
1200-1350
925-1050 |
75-90HS 3250-3650LS 28-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| '76-'87 |
4 Cylinder. |
332-5772
114-5772 |
398-5454
174-5454K1 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
125-155HS 5800-7000LS Note 3 45-55HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
180V+ |
| '88-'94 |
4 Cylinder. |
332-5772
114-5772 |
398-8778* 398-9710* 174-8778K1(a) 174-9710K1(a) Note
11 |
1200-1400
925-1050 |
75-90HS 3250-3650LS Note 3 28-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
180V+ |
| '95 UP |
100/115/ 125 4 Cylinder. 16
Amp |
332-5772
114-5772 |
398-8778* 398-9710* 174-8778K1(a) 174-9710K1(a) Note
11 |
1200-1400
925-1050 |
15-35HS 1000-1600LS Note 3 28-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
180V+ |
| '95-'96 |
120 Sport Jet 4 Cylinder. |
332-826866
332-826866 |
Note 11 398-8778* 398-9710* 174-8778K1(a) 174-9710K2(a) |
1200-1400
925-1050 |
75-90HS 3250-3650LS Note 3 45-55HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| '77 UP |
6 Cylinder. 9-15 Amp |
332-7778
114-7778 |
398-5454
174-5456 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
135-165HS 5800-7000LS 45-55HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
180V+ |
| '90 UP |
6 Cylinder.16 Amp |
332-7778
114-7778 |
398-5454
174-5456-16 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
135-165HS 5800-7000LS 45-55HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| '90-'95 |
6 Cylinder. 40 Amp |
332-7778
114-7778 |
398-9610
174-9610 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
80-140HS 1200-1600LS 80-100HS 1200-1600LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| '96 UP |
6 Cylinder. 40 Amp |
332-7778
114-7778 |
398-9610
174-9610 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
90-140HS 3350-4050LS 28-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| '97 UP |
175 Sport Jet 16 Amp |
18495
114-4953 |
398-9873
174-9873-16 |
750-1400
925-1050 |
75-90HS 3250-3650LS 28-32HS 2200-2400LS |
4V+ |
20V+ HS 180V
+LS |
150V+ |
| |